I have to tell you I never had
considered the fact that anyone else had never tried a tomato sandwich. We
called them mater sandwiches when I was a kid.
The tomatoes taste slightly different at various times of the year. Hothouse
tomatoes and various types of tomatoes also taste different but I have to say
the tomatoes that we got locally in Memphis were the best tasting tomatoes for
the tomato sandwich of any place I’ve ever lived, so I didn’t eat them all that
much after I had moved away, till one day I tried a slice of tomato from the
ugliest tomatoes I had ever seen and they work perfect. I asked my wife if she
wanted one and she said she’d never tried one. I was shocked that after 32
years I had never introduced her to a tomato sandwich. I had introduced her to
fried green tomatoes and fried okra but I had let her down by not introducing
her to the most delicious southern delicacy known to man.
Of course, a lot of people may
differ in their technique in preparing a tomato sandwich but here’s how I do it. It has to be the regular white bread that we
got as kids and real mayonnaise spread on the bread thickly, two generous
slices of tomato a quarter inch thick are better and salted generously and then
enjoyed to your heart’s content. I never
knew how lucky I was living in Memphis and enjoying the cuisine that Memphis
had to offer. I have always attributed
the variety of delicious foods to the fact that Memphis is dead center of the
south and was a major artery for the native Americans along the Mississippi River
that early British, Irish and Spanish settlers and French Canadians used when fleeing
from the tyranny of the British in Canada to Louisiana. Because of the cotton plantations all around
Memphis there were abundant slaves that brought their cuisine from Africa as
well. I even think that my wife’s German family recipes influenced my cooking
talents. So to summarize, we had the best of the Native American influence, the
French Canadian influence, the Spanish influence and the African influence, and
the best of these influences on our food in Memphis. I don’t want to leave out the British and the
Irish influence on the food that we know as Memphis cuisine. I thoroughly believe that our mothers were
influenced in some way by all of the blending of the cultural foods that passed
through Memphis on its way south or west.
I have no proof of this other than to give you certain examples like a
southern buttermilk biscuit. Where do you think the Southerners got the recipe
for the southern biscuit? I will give
you my assumption by asking you to look at the recipes of the Scottish
scone. They mirror the southern biscuits
in many ways. With a couple of exceptions they are identical. Those exceptions are things that would have
been difficult for the early Southern settlers to find, so the mothers and
wives of the early settlers would have had to adapt and change the recipe to
what they had on hand. The same could be
said of all of the ethnic cultures that passed through Memphis and there is
some similarity to all of the foods that we serve on our tables today to all of
the cultures and cuisines that were a great part in making up what I call
Memphis fixin’s.
My family came from farmers,
wheel rites and trades people, but I think the earliest of my family were
farmers and had pigs that they would raise to sell the better parts of meat to
the butchers but they would keep things like the legs and feet, the head and
the ribs that the butchers could not sell to those that could afford to buy
their meat at a store. Now you find such
things like ribs and pig knuckles, ham hocks and other such meats that the
farmers would make meals for their families with. One of the biggest restaurants in Memphis
that’s known worldwide serves the best dry rub ribs in the world. If it had not been for the fact that the
farmers could not sell these parts of the pig to the butchers, we might not
have had the barbecued ribs that most of us love today. So much of our culture has been blended and
processed into what we know now. I know
all of you have had smoked or sugar cured ham and a biscuit for breakfast or
you had biscuits and gravy.
It’s kind of funny when you
travel the United States and look at what the restaurants serve for breakfast
and I’m gonna pick biscuits and gravy to make my example. I have seen in the
western states that they use brown gravy made with either cornstarch or some
other type of thickener for biscuits and gravy.
In the deep south, it’s what we call sawmill gravy which is grease flour
and water, spiced with pork sausage mixed in to make the gravy. As you travel up into the north east, it is just
flour, salt, pepper and grease that makes up the gravy. To give you a taste of East Tennessee cuisine,
one of the main dishes that seems to have been a staple in the mountains of
Tennessee is white beans and onions served together with cornbread and they don’t
seem to use any other spices for their beans and onions. I have to say that the restaurants and your
tables in your homes serve way better food than you get here and like I’ve said
to many people, you can’t get better food than you get in Memphis. I even remember a place in Memphis on Park
Avenue, I think, where they had a restaurant called the Barbecue Palace where
you could get anything and everything barbecued and I don’t mean grilled on a
grill, which brings up another interesting tidbit, in Canada if you put it on a
grill that makes it barbecue and I’m not sure whether their wrong or I’m wrong
but, to me, you can grill anything without it being barbecue. It’s the
preparation and the sauce that makes it barbecue. At the Barbecue Palace you could get their
sample platter which had barbecued bologna, barbecued ham, barbecued beef brisket,
barbecued pork shoulder pulled or chopped, and it even had barbecued spam which,
from what I understand, is a Hawaiian delicacy.
I really loved remembering the
end of this school year picnics that we had at Charjean. All of our mothers
would get together and make their most famous dishes trying to outdo one another
and we, their children, would get the most marvelous meals ever created. I remember the sweets, the meats, the
vegetables, prepared in their family recipes for all of us to enjoy. Our mothers did way much, much more than I
have ever seen since those days for the parties that we had at school than they
do today. I can just smell the sugar
cured ham that they prepared the way that their families had done for years. The
aroma would just burst your taste buds wide open.
They even went all out when we just made
hamburgers and hot dogs with special mustards that they personally made, the
ingredients that they put into the hamburgers and, one time, one mother even
made the buns homemade herself. Who does that today? I do still bake my own bread at times and
there is nothing like homemade bread.
When we sat down to a meal at my house there was always either homemade biscuits
or homemade corn bread and even sometimes there would be homemade yeast rolls. My mother was not necessarily a baker when it
comes to making homemade bread but my grandmother was and, Oh, what bread she
made. There are two smells in this world
that will bring me to tears almost immediately because I remember my mother and
my grandmother through those smells. One of them was homemade bread baking and
the other was homemade fresh apple pie baking.
We lived right behind the apple orchard that later became Airways Junior
High School and we could pick as many apples as we could take home and they
were the green apples that I personally think make the absolute best pies
because the blending of that tart sweet and cinnamon flavors along with the homemade
pie crust were the most heavenly taste, well almost.
I personally think that the old
cranked homemade ice creams that all of us were used to were absolutely the
defining moment in sweet treats.
I know
all of you have your favorites and I’m sure they were passed down from one
family to another or your spouse brought them into your family and it could even
be possible that you picked them up from your neighbors or friends. Food has defined the south as long as I can
remember and I think that southern cooks have always been willing to experiment
and adapt to their surroundings with new and exotic flavors. If you are like me, I still long for the
foods that my mother and grandmother made and that the ladies of our
neighborhoods prepared for us when we were kids.